DUSSELDORF (33)[147]

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The first three of these are in the Altstadt (Old Town, but Alt is also what's on offer...). They are all

entirely pedestrianised, simplifying matters as you reel from one pub to the next.

Zum Uerige (Bergerstrasse 1, 0211/84455) [152] - An absolute must, but beware cigarette smoke which permeates the place. The Altbier here is absolutely wonderful, deserving of the apellation "world classic." If you can find a relatively smoke-free room, so much the better to appreciate the flavour. Open nearly every day, 10 AM to midnight, except for Rose Monday and Christmas day.

Zum Schluessel (Bolkerstrasse 43-47) - Bright, big, and remodelled and expanded about five years ago. Gatzweiler's Alt is the bottled version of this brewpub's beer, made at a separate brewery; the Zum Schluessel version, fresh from the barrel, is superior. Hearty, filling, and well-prepared food, too.

Im Fuechsen (Ratingerstrasse 28) - The best food of these three brewpubs is served here, or so say the locals. I think its an even match between here and Zum Schluessel, and what a rough decision to have to make. So visit them both, and enjoy the Altbier in both places too.

Ferdinand Schumacher (Oststrasse 123, 32 0065) - The original Schumacher is not in the Altstadt, located instead not terribly far from the Main Train Station (Hauptbahnhof) on the edge of downtown. It's hugely popular, of course, serving good food and wonderful housebrewed Altbier, although it's less hoppy than the three Altstadt-based houses' Alt. There's also a place in Bolkerstrasse, Im Goldenen Kessel, that is the second Schumacher house, for those who just can't bear the thought of leaving the Altstadt. It's across the street from Zum Schluessel.

KOLN (35) [155]

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P. J. Fruh Koelner Hofbrau (Am Hof 12-14, 0221/236618) - Extremely handy for the Dom, the Germano-Romantic Museum, and the train station, right in the heart of Cologne. The beer is no longer brewed on-premises, but it's fine and fresh none-the-less. Stikes a nice balance between fruity and hoppy.

served food.

Gebr. Paffgen (64-66 Friesenstrasse 0221/135461) - There's also a second Paeffgen in the Altstadt in Heumarkt, but the Friesenstrasse address is the original. Both are excellent. Probably the hoppiest Koelsch. Open daily from 10 AM to midnight. full menu

Malzmuehle Brauerei Schwartz (6 Heumarkt 0221/210118) - A wonderfully malty Koelsch is brewed and served here, with good Koelner tavern food. Brewery upstairs, cafe downstairs.

Brauhaus Heller (33 Roonstrasse, 5000 Koln, 0221/242545) - Cologne's newest brewpub, open less than three years. Open from 4pm to 1am. Entrance through an arch, down stairs to a cellar

Privat Brauerei Gaffel-Becker, 41 Eigelstein, 5000 Koln, 0221/160060 on a narrow street near the railroad station, has a private drinking vessel collection on display. Brewery tap is at 20-22 Alter Martk in the Old Town

Sion in Unter Taschenmacher in the Old Town

Zlata Praha - near Paffgen just off Heumarkt, serves PU and Budvar Budveiser

Kuppers Brewery - Restaurant and Museum of Brewing. Altenburger Strasse 157 tel. 0222/373242 (tap room) or 0221/37790 take tram 15 or 16 to

Schonhauser Strasse stop. easy parking. Museum is Sat only 11-4pm tap room and restaurant daily 11am to midnight

BONN

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Brauhaus Bo"nnsch Sternbru"cke 4

DUSSLEDORF/KOLN

Altbiers (Dusseldorf and nearby except as specified)

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See DUSSELDORF for the brewpubs

Frankenheim

Diebels (Issum) - Diebels Alt, Issumer (alcohol-free)

Hannen

Schlosser

Dussel

Rhenania

Lindener Gilde (Hanover) - Broyhan Alt

Pinkus Nuller (Munster) - brewpub Altbier

Feldschlosschen (Braunschweig) - Duckstein, Brunswick Alt

Berliner Kindl (Berlin) - Kutscher {50}

Sum Schlussel Haus Brauerei (Dusseldorf) - Gatzweilers Alt

Schumacher Alt

Koelsch

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Fruh-Koelsch

Reissdorf-Koelsch

Gaffel-Koelsch

Heller - Kolsch(filtered), Ur-Wiess (unfiltered)

Malzmuhle - Muhlen Koelsch (not sold in bottles)

Sion - Sion Kolsch

Paffgen

Sester

Gilden

Zunft

Kuppers

Kurfursten

Dom

Burger

Dom

Ganser

Garde

Germania

Gereons

Giesler

Peters

Rats

Richmodis

Romer

Severins

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